Why book Hotel Il Pellicano 

Few hotels epitomise the Italian dolce vita the way Il Pellicano does. Unrolling discreetly on a scenic clifftop in Monte Argentario on the Tuscan coast, this secluded hideaway is drenched in glamour and sophistication in the most charming and unstuffy way. While most grand dames of Italian hospitality conjure up images of palatial properties on the Amalfi Coast or stately homes lining the Venice Grand Canal, Hotel Il Pellicano’s allure comes from its unassuming location. But what lies within its lushly manicured Mediterranean gardens and burnt terracotta walls is a masterclass in vivacious hospitality, retro glamour and expert curation. 

Hotel Il Pellicano, Good to Know

• Rates: From €1,650/night in high season
• Vibe: Understatedly glamourous 
• Best for: Hardcore hospitality lovers, honeymooners, those seeking the quintessential dolce vita
• Avoid if: You want easy accessibility to nightlife 
• Getting there: 1 hour 45 minutes drive north from Rome airport
• Don’t miss: Paddleboarding off the private pier in the Tyrrhenian Sea, a tour of the wine cellar, a martini mixed up by bar manager Federcio Morosi at Bar All’Aperto

Set the scene

Il Pellicano began life in the 1960s as the love nest of an American socialite and a British aviator. The couple fell in love with Tuscany – and built Il Pellicano as a dazzling pied-à-terre to share with friends, and friends of friends. It quickly became the go-to destination of the jet-set set, drawing the who’s who of the fashion, design and art worlds. A Slim Aarons photograph of the beach club has become a pin-up of the retro glamour of Italian summers in the 1960s and 1970s. 

In 1979, it was snapped up by businessman Roberto Sciò, who was captivated by its inimitable magnetism. He transformed the villa into a beautiful hotel, retaining the timeless glamour and welcoming spirit. Today, it’s helmed by his daughter Marie-Louise, who serves as the CEO and creative director of Pellicano Hotels Group, now a collective of three Italian hotels (one just outside of Rome and one in Ischia).

The location 

While typical Tuscan summer sojourns evoke images of rolling vineyards and endless olive groves, Il Pellicano’s seaside location means driving to the Monte Argentario peninsula of Porto Ercole. On one side, it perfectly frames the shimmering Tyrrhenian Sea, on the other, it’s backdropped by craggy clifftops. Getting here is part of the experience, and driving the winding road down to Il Pellicano’s gates offers gorgeous views of stretching landscapes of endless greenery. The nearest town, the sleepy and secluded Porto Ercole, is a 10-minute drive away, and is mostly known and loved for its family-run harbourside restaurants, pretty boutiques that span multiple generations, and its dramatic fortresses. 

The rooms

Individuality and expert curation transform each of Il Pellicano’s rooms and suites into a unique abode packed with character. Split between the main house and the quaint cottages that pepper the gardens, each fuses gentle Tuscan references with enigmatic design details that are wonderfully chic. 

Our own superior sea view room in the main house features quintessential Il Pellicano white and yellow stripes on the headboard and lamps, and the room floods with natural light thanks to French doors that open onto a delightful balcony with sweeping views of the sea. Thoughtful touches like velvet slippers, bottles of local olive oil and freshly baked shortbread are lovely to return to at varying points of our stay. But there’s also a Bluetooth speaker, Faber coffee machine, and bright white Carrara marble bathroom with a freestanding tub that invites a delightful soak after a day under the Tuscan sun.  

The food and drink 

Despite its boutique size, Il Pellicano’s drinking and dining choices are impressively extensive. The wow-factor begins at breakfast, where guests can dine on the terrace of Ristorante Il Pellicano on a truly decadent buffet of freshly baked cakes and pastries, featuring everything from flaky croissants to spongy coffee cake and a zingy lemon tart topped with local berries. Then there’s the continental cheese and meat platters, which sit alongside a cured meat carving station. And fresh juices made in-house are complemented by a bottle of bubbly, which many guests add to orange juice and sip mimosas as they drink in the morning sun. The Issimo daily presents the day’s a la carte egg dishes, as well as a weather forecast, the tipple of the day, and information about the local area, and is a fantastically retro touch that reimagines the traditional menu. 

The relaxed and refined Pelligrill is a hearty Tuscan grill that overlooks the pool terrace. Guests slowly drift here from the pool or beach club during the day in breezy linens and billowing cover-ups, animated chatter backdropping leisurely lunches of local ingredients. Think caprese salads drizzled with olive oil and a signature pizza (which must be ordered a minimum of 24-hours in advance) of perfectly crunchy dough and sizzling toppings. Dinner here is a more formal affair, where guests embrace the final flickers of daylight while watching the chefs move like clockwork across the open-plan kitchen, whipping up bowls of al dente pasta and moreish local meats with calm and finesse. The sommelier is on hand to recommend one of the 1,500 labels stocked in the Il Pellicano cellar, and when we ask follow-up questions, invites us to peruse the shelves in person, a wonderful treat for any wine aficionado. 

There’s an ‘anything, anytime’ approach to drinks. The juice bar, a rustic-luxe wooden setup, by the beach club can whip up healthy smoothies or signature cocktails from mid-morning, as can Bar All’Aperto, a colourful alfresco terrace bar tended by an equally-as-colourful bar manager, Federico Morosi. As much part of the furniture as the original paintings that hang in the lobby, he’s the mastermind behind the Pelican Martini, a libation that proves unsurprisingly popular at pre-dinner drinks. 

The facilities 

The remote location has lent Il Pellicano to curate a plentiful roster of activities, and among them, it’s impossible to run out of things to do. For sun-soaked summer days, choose between a lounger at the poolside or take the several flights of stairs that descend the cliff to the beach club. The latter is where most guests while away balmy afternoons, dipping between the dizzying blue water and their canary yellow striped towels that drape each lounger. There’s no house music or saxophonist here – this beach club prefers the sound of crashing waves and gentle conversation as its background music of choice – and it’s all the better for it. 

A collection of floats, lilos and paddleboards placed at the edge of the pier for guests to use at their leisure. There’s also Il Pellicano’s yacht and dinghy available for guests to book should they wish to explore more of the stretching coastline.  The cypress-framed grass tennis court is the masterful work of Italian landscaper Paolo Pejrone and must be among Italy’s most sensational tennis courts – so be sure to reserve ahead to guarantee a slot. 

Then there’s the Pelliclub, which features a relaxing spa designed for blissful indulgence, and a stylish boutique, Issimo. Curated by creative director, Marie-Louise, it’s a treasure trove of Italian craftsmanship covering everything from fashion and homewares to beauty and accessories. There’s also the Pellicano-branded souvenirs, far chicer than your traditional tourist takeaways, that include signature striped beach towels, fashionable branded totes and delicate silk-blend scarves.  

The service

Sincere and seamless. Many of the team are seasoned hoteliers, and even more have been working at Il Pellicano for years. They pay extra attention to special celebrations, and cater to every request like it’s already been handled. We arrive to a bottle of sparkling wine in celebration of our anniversary, snag a portion of the Pelligrill’s renowned 24-hour pre-order pizza with an afternoon’s notice, and upon departure, chilled waters are waiting in the car alongside our loaded luggage for the drive ahead. 

The verdict 

Rightfully deserving of its renowned reputation, Il Pellicano is effortlessly glamourous and wonderfully original. Each guest is treated much as I imagine they would have been when visiting as a guest of the villa’s original owners, with warmth, attentiveness and genuine thought. It’s impossible not to get caught up in Il Pellicano’s effortless charisma, and that’s exactly what makes it so magnetic.

pellicanohotels.com, @hotelilpellicano

Sign up for the latest travel news, reviews, inspiration and so much more from the Middle East and beyond straight to your inbox.