Grandeur and history meet contemporary charm at this reimagined 12th century castle stay
Alice Holtham-Pargin
COMO Castello Nero Good to know
- Rates: From €1,054/night in high season
- Vibe: Quintessential quiet Tuscan luxury
- Best for: Couples, honeymooners, foodies
- Avoid if: You want easy accessibility to towns
- Getting there: 1 hour 45 minute drive from Bologna Airport
- Don’t miss: A scenic hike along one of their mapped-out routes, dinner at one Michelin Star La Torre, wine tasting with the sommelier in the wine cellar on Super Tuscan labels
Set the scene
The Tuscan countryside has endless appeal for city dwellers. Its fragrant Cyprus trees, rolling vineyards and verdant woodlands soothe a craving for nature, serenity and quietude. Its stays are vast and varied, from quaint family-run vineyards to the gloriously grand stately former homes of noble families. Leaning towards the latter is COMO Castello Nero, which has seen Singapore-born COMO Hotels and Resorts lend its global expertise in curating experience-driven properties to a 12th century castle.
The home of the locally renowned Nero family for centuries, it operated as an independent hotel until just before the pandemic, when COMO took over, using the global pause on travel as an opportunity to complete an extensive – yet thoughtful – renovation. The hypnotising locale and the Renaissance-style décor have been preserved, while a chic pool scene and a signature COMO Shambhala spa elevate the wellbeing offering.
The location
Nestled in the sun-drenched Chianti hills, COMO Castello Nero is conveniently situated between Siena and Florence. From Pisa airport, it’s just over an hour, from Bologna, it’s roughly an hour and 45 minutes. A drive through the sleepy village of Tavarnelle Val di Pesa lands you at the looming stone gates that guard this magnetic, medieval castle, the wrought iron gates wide open to welcome guests.
The estate stretches as far as the eye can see, opening out onto hundreds of acres of land for guests to admire, wander and explore. Even the buildings on the horizon form part of the property, one has been transformed into self-catered apartments designed for longer stays; the other a grand villa unveiled last year, catering to multi-generational, luxury stays, complete with private pool, wine cellar and chef’s kitchen.
The vibe
Smartly suited bellmen are on hand to whisk our luggage straight from the car into the reception, and we only see it again once we arrive upstairs at our suite. The perfectly manicured gardens draw our attention before we head inside, and it’s impossible not to be drawn into their floral fragrance. A glass of chilled, bubbly is handed to us as we complete the check-in formalities, and we relax on the plush sofas in the grand lobby in muted grey, illuminated by a gothic iron chandelier. There’s a modern masculinity to the space, moody grey walls, an original fireplace and oak wood doors leading the aesthetic, but fresh flowers and the whitewashed reception desk add welcome warmth.
Rooms and suites
A collection of 50 rooms and suites are dotted across buildings within the estate, but our own suite is found in the main house. Milan-based interior designer Paola Navone’s distinct touch is felt throughout, with cool, muted tones paired with minimalistic interiors that make COMO’s modern presence felt. They juxtapose with the original tiled floor and wooden beams beautifully. We enter to a small living room with lovely views over the courtyard and a table of welcome amenities that include homemade chocolates and a bottle of Tuscan red wine from the property’s vineyard. The plush bed offered one of the best night’s sleep we’ve had in months, a spongy mattress and Egyptian cotton sheets providing complete comfort. While the marble bathroom was stocked with a generous stack of towels, Como Shambala products, and a generous tub. There’s smart TVs in both rooms, plus a Dyson hairdryer, but unfortunately, neither phone worked, meaning reaching reception required walking downstairs.
Food and drink
Much of the culinary action revolves around the charming garden-facing Pavilion restaurant. Leisurely breakfasts featured bowls of perfectly ripe fruits, cold cuts and freshly baked pastries, while fluffy French toasts and golden omelettes packed with ingredients from the garden are delicious dishes made to order. We return to Pavilion for dinner and it impresses just as much. The local flavours sing – with ingredients sourced from the estate or locally as much as possible, in dishes like the prosciutto and mozzarella, juicy prawns in Tuscan tomato sauce and the wonderfully tender lamb, served with mushrooms and chard. An expansive terrace serves as an extension of La Taverna bar, where guests would gather most evenings to watch the fiery sunsets and streaks of sorbet hues dance across the sky, sipping the hotel’s refreshing spritzes.
A standout dining experience is La Torre, which has held its Michelin star for more than a decade. This stylish, refined restaurant, helmed by executive chef Giovanni Luca Di Pirro, is a near-faultless showcase of local ingredients and inventive cuisine. There are five- and seven-course tasting menus curated by the restaurant team, but guests can also curate their own menus, mixing and matching to design a unique culinary experience. Service is sincere and knowledgeable, and where some Michelin star menus feel cold and robotic, this is unstuffy, striking the perfect balance between friendly and informative.
Spa and facilities
The heart of all COMO properties is the COMO Shambhala spa, and while many Tuscan estates of a similar stature confine their wellness spaces to leftover rooms, COMO Castello Nero makes its own a crowning feature. A hidden sanctuary on the lower floor of the main hotel, it’s transformed the former servants’ quarters into a wellness haven. The maze-like space stretches long and wide, each door revealing a neutral, instantly calming treatment room, yoga pavilion or private Pilates studio. Thermal suites include an ice fountain, experience shower, steam room and sauna, plus a heated alfresco vitality pool that opens up to the garden, so you don’t miss a moment of basking in the sunshine.
It’s impossible not to lull into slow-paced serenity under the shade of a parasol at the 25-metre pool, which gets the best sun around midday. We graze on crunchy paninis packed with layers of Tuscan prosciutto and vine-ripe tomatoes, sip fresh waters, replenished near-hourly, and while away hours with a good book, occasionally peering over the pages to gaze at the stretching views.
For more intense alfresco pursuits, a tennis and padel court, encased in Cyprus trees, are available for guests to book complimentary every day from sunrise.
The service
Intuitive without being overbearing – there’s a warmth and familiarity from everyone we encounter. It’s clear that a lot of the team have been here for many years, and their knowledge both of the property and the local area consistently impresses. One evening, we ask questions about the size of the estate, and are quickly handed a map, complete with hiking trails, to explore it for ourselves. We mention playing padel at reception, and are swiftly handed rackets, chilled waters and escorted to the court.
The drawbacks
The isolation is as much an appeal as it is a drawback – there’s no supermarkets or shops nearby, so plan ahead and stop en route should you need to pick anything up. Those looking to explore the local area will need a car, even to get to local vineyards and restaurants, meaning there will always need to be a designated driver.
The verdict
This fairytale-like stay bottles up the best bit of the alluring Tuscan countryside setting and rich history, elegantly framing it with elevated modern touches that captivate luxury travellers.
Book now at comohotels.com
