It started, as it often should, with a poppadum. Not the kind you find rattling around in a bread basket with a fluorescent mango dip, but a proper spread – crisp, lacquered, thoughtfully arranged with chutneys that show someone in the kitchen actually cares. The green one was sharp and fresh, the tamarind dark and sticky, the mango pickle had real heat. Before the waiter had even finished explaining the menu, it was clear: this wasn’t going to be just another polished take on Indian food in Dubai.

The Bombay Club sits within The Fore at Jumeirah Marsa Al Arab, a cluster of four high-end restaurants inside one of the city’s most opulent new hotels. That already puts it on the back foot. Expectations are high and competition fierce, but here, there’s substance beneath the surface. Chefs Manav Tuli and Kumaran Balaji have taken the flavours of Bombay and quietly reworked them for a dining crowd that’s seen it all, but still wants to be impressed.

The interiors

No gimmicks. No forced nostalgia. Just a calm, composed space that’s clearly been designed for grown-ups. The palette runs through greens, pinks, and burnt terracotta, with a mix of smooth stone, rattan and velvet that avoids looking like it was pulled from a showroom. Tables are spaced just enough to feel discreet, and the lighting is moody without being murky – not easy in a city where ‘ambience’ usually means strip lights or total darkness.

The food

The menu is familiar on paper – butter chicken, lamb chops, tandoori lobster – but don’t let that fool you. This is not a rerun of dishes you’ve had elsewhere. The butter chicken is gently smoked, lifted with mustard oil and properly acidic tomato. The lobster is grilled with precision, spiced just enough to hold its own without drowning the shellfish.

The lamb chop is a standout – thick, tender, coated in dried coconut and garam masala, with pomegranate seeds that don’t feel like garnish. And the Peshawari naan, often a cloying side act elsewhere, is rich and just sweet enough to work with everything else. The flavours are big, but never bludgeoning.

The vibe

It’s a small space, which helps. By 8pm, there’s a hum. Not loud, not chaotic, just a steady sense that everyone’s glad they booked. Service is sharp and understated. You’re not being hovered over, but nothing is missed. The staff know the menu well, are happy to advise without overselling, and cocktails arrive cold. Always a good sign.

Star dishes

– Smoked butter chicken – richer and deeper than the usual
– Konkani lamb chop – charred, fragrant, perfectly pink
– Tandoori lobster – balanced, spicy, not overcomplicated
– Peshawari naan – almond, raisin and coconut done right
– Poppadum and chutney set – simple but very well executed

Anything to add?

Cocktails come via The Fore’s shared bar menu, which means you can order from any of the four restaurants. It’s a smart move, and the illustrated menus are a nice touch. The Saffron Martini is worth a look – floral, not fussy.

Dubai doesn’t need another ‘modern Indian’ concept. What it does need, and what The Bombay Club delivers, is a restaurant that respects the classics, doesn’t show off, and still manages to surprise. There’s nothing overwrought here. Just well-made food, a good room, and the quiet confidence to let both speak for themselves.

For bookings, visit jumeirah.com, @thebombayclub.dubai

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