St Moritz. The name precedes it. If Courchevel feels shiny and new, St Moritz is inherited. Old money rather than loud money. Members’ clubs over mega clubs. Unbranded knitwear, proper watches, a sense that nothing here needs to explain itself. It is stoic, assured, quietly certain of its place in the world.

As a relatively new skier, five winters in, St Moritz has always fascinated me. Not because it tries to seduce beginners, but because it doesn’t. This is the birthplace of winter tourism, host of two Winter Olympics, and a town that has been skiing, skating and hosting society long before Alpine glamour became a global industry. From John Lennon to Alfred Hitchcock, royalty to rock stars, the world has long come here to disappear discreetly. If you’ve ever seen a Slim Aarons or Tony Kelly winter photograph, there’s a very good chance it was taken here, in venues that still exist today.

Unlike many ski resorts, St Moritz is a real town with a local population, open year-round and just as compelling in summer as it is under snow. But winter is when it sharpens. When the lake freezes and the season settles in, the place begins to gleam.

There are the palaces first, pale and imposing, something out of a Wes Anderson frame. The most glamorous is Badrutt’s, or simply ‘the Palace’ as locals call it, watching over the town as it has since 1896. Below, chalet restaurants glow at dusk, pop-ups and boutiques arrive from every major fashion house, and mornings begin with the ritual ascent into the mountains. The skiing starts on blues, naturally. This is St Moritz. You are expected to know.

The Address Book

Winter events

White Turf
Horse racing on the frozen lake across three February weekends. Equal parts sport and social theatre, with champagne tents, fur coats and grandstand views.

Snow Polo World Cup
International polo played on ice in late January. Surprisingly watchable, highly sociable, and best seen from the lake’s edge with a drink in hand.

The I.C.E.
A concours of rare and classic cars staged on the frozen lake. Part exhibition, part spectacle, part society gathering.

Where to ski in St Moritz

Corviglia, Marguns and Suvretta: The core St Moritz ski area. Wide pistes, long cruising runs and excellent grooming directly above town. Ideal for confident intermediates.

Corvatsch: Higher altitude and broader terrain, but bitterly cold in early winter. Best avoided in December unless conditions are mild.

What to see and do in St Moritz

Cresta Club: Watch skeleton racers launch at Junction and walk down to Shuttlecock. The clubhouse is members-only, but the run is pure St Moritz drama.

Olympic Bob Run: The world’s only natural ice bobsleigh track, rebuilt every winter. Walk the closed road to watch key corners, especially Horseshoe.

Val Fex: Reachable by foot or sledge. A quiet, snow-covered valley with cross-country trails and traditional restaurants. Ideal for long lunches or early dinners.

Muottas Muragl: Funicular-accessed viewpoint with sweeping Engadin views. Go on a clear day and allow time to linger.

Neighbouring villages: Sils Maria, Silvaplana and Pontresina offer calmer walks and lunches. In Sils Maria, Hotel La Margna is a reliable stop.

Museums: The Berry Museum documents alpine society life; the Segantini Museum focuses on monumental alpine painting.

Where to eat in St Moritz

Chesa Veglia: A 17th-century farmhouse housing several restaurants. Low ceilings, wood panelling, deep history. The Polo Bar remains the most recognisable room. Restaurants include: Pizzeria Heuboden: Looks casual, but one of the hardest tables in town. Two storeys, buzzing energy, a tight menu of wood-fired pizzas and pasta. Also Patrizier Stuben: Traditional Swiss dining as you’ve dreamed it would be. Low ceilings, dark wood, candlelight. Quiet, intimate and unapologetically old-world.

La Coupole – Matsuhisa: Set inside Badrutt’s former indoor tennis courts. Japanese-Peruvian cooking in a domed space. Polished, international, and a welcome change from Alpine fare.

Paradiso Mountain Club: Tony Kelly territory. Two expansive terraces overlooking lakes and slopes. Fur coats, champagne, long lunches. Part restaurant, part spectacle.

Acla: A dependable, relaxed restaurant on the main square. Ideal for uncomplicated local fare and an easy lunch in town.

Alphütte Clavadatsch: A cosy alpine hut above town with panoramic views. Ideal for a mid-mountain lunch during ski days.

Bob Restaurant: Located at the start of the Olympic bobsleigh run. A good lunch stop paired with watching training runs.

Where to drink in St Moritz

The Renaissance Bar at Badrutt’s Palace Hotel: Brighter than expected lights, smoky air, a small corner bar and deep loungers. This bar isn’t trying to be anything but it is – timeless and iconic. Ski instructors, financiers and celebrities share stools. Walk-ins still possible.

Coffee shops and cafés

Café Belmont: A small, civilised day bar by Silvano Vitalini serving excellent coffee, light bites and a serious champagne and wine list. Easy to linger, and just as good after dark.

Caffè Spettacolo: Informal and reliable, close to the station. Good espresso, quick pastries and easy takeaway between errands.

Balthazar Downtown: Relaxed café-bar popular with a younger crowd. Good coffee by day, cocktails later on.

Where to shop in St Moritz

Mytheresa Pop-Up: New for the season. A tight edit of winter fashion and accessories, attracting a steady, well-dressed crowd.

Via Serlas luxury boutiques: The world’s highest luxury shopping mile sits steps from Badrutt’s Palace Hotel. Versace, Cartier, Hermès, Bulgari, Louis Vuitton and more line the elegant street – ideal for serious fashion hunting between slopes and après.

Gübelin Boutique: Jewellery and couture watches in a historic boutique that has been part of St Moritz since the early 20th century, now on Via Serlas near the Palace.

Moncler and other designer flagships: Moncler, Gucci, Fusalp and other couture flagships sit on the main streets, perfect for ski gear and high fashion in equal measure.

Local boutiques & ateliers: St Moritz is more than big names. Shops like Lamm Cashmere House and Kriemler offer locally relevant cashmere and wardrobe staples, while JOY Fashion and The Lion Fashion bring curated, quality pieces to the resort’s winter shopping loop.

Specialty & concept spots: Trois Pommes The Store and other independent boutiques mix local designers with international labels, offering accessories, gifts and winter essentials with personality.

St Moritz Shop: A tourism office with a difference – more cool concept store than information hub. It offers St Moritz apparel to branded accessories and curated prints – a tidy winter assortment.

Where to stay in St Moritz

Badrutt’s Palace Hotel (NEAR+FAR choice): Built in 1896, a landmark that quite literally lords over the town. A fairytale hotel with indoor and outdoor pools, breakfast in the grandest dining room overlooking the lake, often accompanied by a harpist. The service is its secret weapon: staff who feel like family, many of whom have been here for 30 or 35 years. It remains, quite simply, one of the most spectacular hotels ever built. @badruttspalace

Kulm Hotel St. Moritz: The original grande dame of St Moritz and birthplace of winter tourism. Refined, elegant and deeply traditional, with one of the town’s best spa and wellness offerings. @kulmhotel

Suvretta House: Set apart above town with direct ski access and sweeping valley views. Grand yet calm, favoured by families and those who prefer space, fresh air and quiet glamour. @suvrettahouse

Carlton Hotel St. Moritz: All-suite, south-facing and deliberately discreet. A more contemporary take on Alpine luxury, known for privacy, panoramic views and an excellent spa. @carltonstmoritz

Romantik Hotel Muottas Muragl: A mountaintop hideaway reached by funicular. Simple rooms, dramatic views and a feeling of being pleasantly removed from the St Moritz scene below. @muottasmuragl

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