Hotel de Russie review: 9/10

Why book Hotel de Russie

It’s hard to describe the feeling you get when walking into Rome’s Hotel de Russie. Perhaps it’s the top-hatted doormen with their cheerful ‘buongiorno’ or the graceful resident felines – Mona and Lisa- or the immaculate interiors, marble floors and fresh flowers housed in handmade OTT Sicilian vases. One of the jewels of Italian brand Rocco Forte’s portfolio, Hotel de Russie is a Rome institution that opened in the early 19th century and hosted guests like artist Pablo Picasso and poet Jean Cocteau. In 2000, the hotel was acquired by Rocco Forte, and in-house designer Olga Polizzi’s flawless touches are now throughout – from pop art to Roman Empire-esque stonework and marble. There are more modern hotels in the city, but few have more soul, character and space. Glamourous guests flock from all over the city to enjoy coffee, aperitivo, and dine in its Secret Garden – 2,800 square metres of terraced gardens full of palm trees, yews and white climbing roses – while rooms and suites are grand and sophisticated – just like a grand dame’s should be. A location on a quiet street in the northern reaches of the Aurelian Walls near the makes it the ideal hideaway, and this review delighted in organic Irene Forte toiletries, a subterranean spa with an indoor pool and breakfast – a truly exquisite affair in the shade of the secret garden with white table cloths and personality-filled staff.

The vibe

Impossibly glamourous and old-world luxurious, though not stuffy in the slightest – a delicate balance to tread. The hotel is always abuzz, with a mix of in-house and external guests – the latter book weeks in advance for a spot in the secret jardin or outdoor restaurant. During the way, we spot business meetings, languid lunches and more – largely with chic locals – and come night, an even more stylish crowd for aperitivo and candlelit dinners under the trees. Dogs are allowed, so expect to see adorable pooches accompanying their well-heeled owners. In-house guests are usually couples, more mature travellers or wealthy business travellers. The staff is delightful, especially at the door, check-in, breakfast, and concierge, and it’s easy to have an authentic laugh and chatter.

Location

Hotel de Russie’s entrance is almost unassuming for such an illustrious property, tucked away from the main thoroughfare on a quieter street bordering the grand Piazza de Polpo and graceful Villa Borghese. All the big attractions are an easy walk away; the Spanish steps are right around the corner, the banks of the Tiber are a five-minute stroll, and the Villa Medici and Trevi Fountain are between 10-15 minutes away. We loved the elegant energy of the location – surrounded by shiny designer boutiques, gleaming cobble lanes, Italian trattorias and sophisticated coffee shops. Via Margutta, one of the most beautiful streets in Rome, is right next to the hotel, lined with interior design houses and galleries.

Rooms and suites

Hotel de Russie offers 120 rooms, including 34 suites, which are a minimum of 30 square metres (spacious in a city like Rome) and decorated with soothing plush design touches. It’s worth asking for a room that looks onto the internal courtyard and garden, though other views across Rome’s terracotta rooftops are also very pleasant. Rooms are flooded with natural light, and Carerra marble bathrooms are stocked with Irene Forte products made with organic ingredients from the family’s farm in Sicily. Our spacious Superior Suite is the dream city hideaway, with separate living and bedrooms, which feel both relaxed and contemporary, and old-world art deco simultaneously. Fresh fruit appeared each day and there’s a minibar and coffee machine. Milk isn’t included as a standard, so those who take it make sure to order it beforehand or request it from room service. Housekeeping is excellent, and two lovely ladies are all too obliging to transform to layer my mattress with toppers and additional padding. Top-tier suites have views across the garden and onto the Villa Borghese, with some having their own private terraces for an authentic taste of dolce vita.

Food and drink

Hotel de Russie has just one restaurant and one bar, and as a result, both are absolutely wonderful. The Jardin de Russie is the hotel’s all-day restaurant, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and perched high above the stone balustrades in the garden under tumbling foliage. Under white umbrellas and on crisp white tablecloths, guests can enjoy breakfast to the sound of running water and birds chirping. For breakfast, we indulge in pot after pot of fresh Italian coffee, plate after plate from the buffet feast – think cheeses, meats, fruits, cereals, daily changing Italian sweet treats and the perfect scrambled eggs. The kitchen will whip up anything you like, and there’s an additional breakfast menu for a surcharge with options like crab omelettes and white truffle pizza. Lunch and dinner serve classic Italian cuisine, and there’s also a beautiful indoor dining space reminiscent of an orangery or summer house with soothing cream and sage green interiors.

For coffee, a snack, or, which we never miss each evening, aperitivo, head to the Stravinskij Bar in the internal rosy-hued courtyard. The space is always bustling: with elegant guests and locals in the day reading the paper with espresso or with well-dressed guests and Romans come evening. The Stravinskij Bar is one of Rome’s most beautiful and well-known aperitivo spots, and the tables are a sea of orange from icey Aperol Spritzes. For something a little different, a new cocktail menu by ‘maestro’ veteran bartender Salvatore Calabrese has 11 creative serves. The space is named after composer Igor Stravinskij, who visited Rome in 1917 and described Hotel de Russie’s Secret Garden as an ‘earthly paradise’. We have to agree… Guests also have access to 24-hour in-room dining of international and Italian favourites.

Spa and facilities

Thanks to its grandeur, reputation as a luxury city hotel and its rich history, you’d forgive Hotel de Russie for not having a spa – making it even more wonderful when you discover its secret facilities. Wander down in your robe, and the spa hotels will open a locked wooden door to unveil a blue-hued room with a curved indoor heated saltwater pool, Finnish sauna and ice fountain. Mosaic tiles and a star-studded ceiling create a cosy, warm and enveloping feeling. The hotel also has a spa offering treatments and a gym.

Anything to add?

Take the time to stroll through the magical gardens and truly take them in. One afternoon, we take a seat in the comfortable lounge seating for an hour or so and just admire their splendour with a book in hand—they’re there to be enjoyed.

Doubles from €1,350 (about AED5,320); roccofortehotels.com, @hotelderussie

Sign up for the latest travel news, reviews, inspiration and so much more from the Middle East and beyond straight to your inbox.