Family travel expert Maryanne Peacock checks into one of Thailand’s most unique luxury lodges – here’s what she thought
I caught my first glimpse of Four Seasons Tent Camps in the Golden Triangle on someone’s Instagram about eight years ago and from that moment on, I knew that I had to get myself over there at some point in my life. With business in Bangkok calling and a baby due date pending, it seemed like a great time to book in for a quick two night trip to the jungle to take in these tented camps for myself. What greeted me was more special than what I had seen online. Reminiscent to a safari experience, this hotel is very much off the grid, a special place where you are truly surrounded by nature.
With birdwatching, hiking and elephant expeditions all on site, guests aren’t short of ways to wile away the peaceful hours at the Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle. The jungle resort shares its name with the surrounding region—where the Mekong River borders Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos—and is a little over a one hour drive from Chiang Rai airport, making it conveniently accessible for visitors.
Once infamously known as a centre of the opium trade, the tented camps are located in the heart of the Golden Triangle, in Thailand overlooking Myanmar and the rising casinos of Laos. To fly, you can jump on a direct flight from Bangkok to Chiang Rai airport (approx. 1 hour). Alternatively, if you are also visiting Chiang Mai in the same trip, you can drive directly to the camps which will take you around 5 hours (long, but apparently a stunning scenic drive). Depending on arrival timing, you can either enter the resort in a restored Land Rover Defender or, the preferred option for most who arrive during daylight hours is via long tail boat, cruising along the Mekong River and pulling up in style. When I say the camps are surrounded by forest, this is no exaggeration! The view from our tent was trees, river, mountains, peppered with the occasional elephant – it truly embodies the phrase ‘off the grid’.
There are 15 fully air-conditioned tents and one explorers lodge on site, each generously positioned away from each other for privacy. The furnishings and decor are reminiscent of 19th century adventure expeditions with handcrafted leather and wood furniture, mosquito nettings and hurricane lamps. Each space offers a vast balcony (and some have small plunge pools) with views over the jungle, whilst inside there is a huge bathtub that acts as the centrepiece of each space. An outdoor shower and separate bathroom are connected with zip and unzip “windows” – never really envisioning myself as a camper, I quickly realised that this was the type of camping I could get on board with.
Designed by architect Bill Bensley, the rooms have lasted well over the 14 years in operation and you can tell they are constantly maintained to stay up to the FS standard – the only downside is the noise levels. Bugs and animal noises, I can get on board with, but when the local village decides to have a party, the tents don’t quite cut it for blocking out the noise and the ear plugs provided in the room amenity kit come in handy. For larger families or friends travelling together, the Camp also features a stunning two-bedroom Explorer’s Lodge with spacious bedrooms and an expansive deck. This safari-styled accommodation comes with a magnificent outdoor pool with gorgeous views into the surrounding jungle. The team are also always on call to assist with any food requests or even set up a big screen TV so you can watch a movie under the stars (the tents themselves have no TVs).
There is only one restaurant and bar on site but the highlight of any stay at Four Seasons Tented Camp is the array of signature dining experiences on offer. From Sunrise breakfast and riverside picnics, to Traditional Kanthok dinners at the camp’s highest point and a private candlelit dinner at the Elephant Camp, the options are endless. There is also Burma Bar, which plays host to sunset every day and a fully fledged cocktail list featuring local concoctions and international favourites. Nong Yao Restaurant is open all day and you can order everything from a flavorful Thai curry at 10am to classic scrambled eggs in the evening. To ensure you never get bored of the menu, the team presents special daily menus, one offering western cuisine and the other local Lanna (Thai, Laotian, Burmese) dishes – with the option to mix and match if you wish.
The Khao Soi Hor, a Northern Thai-style egg noodle curry with chicken and coconut milk, is a must try (and the best thing I ate during our trip to Thailand) followed by a portion of mango sticky rice. The Kaow Phad and Yum Nua (Thai grilled beef salad) were fragrant and delicious. Starting everyday from 7am, a highlight of any visit to Four Seasons Tented Camp is when the elephants come to join you for breakfast. Daily, these beautiful animals normally stay for an hour to enjoy copious amounts of coconuts, bananas and cucumbers, which visitors can hand feed them. A true treat for any animal lover out there.
The open-air spa, overlooking the jungle valley offers a handful of luxurious experiences from the two relaxation rooms, both complete with wooden tubs looking out over the lush forest. There are three signature treatments, the highlight being the Doi Tung Rejuvenator, where soothing aromatic oils are combined with kneading and stretching, leaving the body completely relaxed and refreshed. Reflexology is also used, to assist in the release of energy blockages and toxins. There is no gym or wellness centre on site, but trust me you will not need it. Thanks to the jungle terrain, the tents are placed up high, whilst the main restaurant and bar are further below – meaning every meal or drink involves a step climb and stroll back to your abode. There are also two small pools on site – one chilled and one warmer ‘whirl pool’, both offering plenty of shade from the midday sun and gorgeous views over the Mekong.
Tented Camp shares their rolling hills with an elephant rehabilitation reserve, who rescue and adopt these gentle giants from the streets of Thailand. There are lots of ways you can be interactive with these beautiful beasts, but the main way is visiting the elephants in their natural habitat and giving them a bath. After a basic anatomy lesson from the Camp’s mahouts, we set off on a walk through the wilderness with the elephants. As we watched them splash in the pond and enjoy their bath time, it was easy to see that each elephant had its own personality, just like human beings. Another must try experience is a visit to the local markets and a trip up to the Golden Triangle view point, a morning excursion that is worth getting out of bed for.
The Verdict
If you are looking for a real adventure, totally off the grid, then this hotel is for you! Perfect for a two, three or four night escape, the experience is one with nature with all the touches of a luxury hotel. Service is 10/10 and nothing is too much of an ask for the incredible team, who can attend to every request, however big or small – I truly believe they want to make every guest’s experience as special as possible. Offering unique excursions that include interacting with rescued elephants, exploring spectacular mountain trails or simply unwinding in luxury tents, this really is a special experience, one I will never forget.
Tents from about AED7,600 a night; fourseasons.com, @fstentedcamp
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