I first came to Athens in 2020, a stopover on the way to Paros. I fell hard. I have returned every year since, twice last year alone, and I feel the pull of the city each time I am away from it. What took the world so long?
There is the city itself: cobbled Plaka in the shadow of the Acropolis, cool Kolonaki with its cocktail bars, coffee shops and boutiques, Monastiraki with its Sunday flea market and two of the World’s 50 Best Bars. Then there is the Acropolis itself, lording over everything like something from a painting. To me, this is the most mesmerising city view in the world, full stop.
Then there are the beaches, and the resort suburbs of Glyfada and Vouliagmeni to the south: the latter with its pine-shaded peninsula, thermal lake, old-money tennis clubs and Four Seasons Astir Palace (once the Astir Palace), where Onassis and Niarchos once moored their yachts and Athenian society has always come to play. The city’s southern edge is transforming too: the vast Ellinikon project, built on the former airport site, is already opening its doors as Europe’s most ambitious urban regeneration scheme.
Athens gives everything. History, food (the best of any European capital, and I will happily argue this point), wine, islands on your doorstep, and some of the warmest, most generous people anywhere in the world. It is so much more than a stopover or an ancient history tick-box. It is an effervescent, brilliant city on the cusp of genuine global status. Here is where to stay, eat, drink, and explore.
Welcome to our Athens address book. Isabella
Where to stay in Athens
Four Seasons Astir Palace: The finest hotel in Greece, and a strong contender for the finest on the Mediterranean. Set on its own pine-covered peninsula in Vouliagmeni, 30 minutes south of the city, it occupies a private cove above the Ionian Sea with the kind of setting that requires no embellishment. Part brutalist monument, part coastal sanctuary: linen-clad guests, the glitter of the bay, Aristotle Onassis and Stavros Niarchos once mooring in these waters. The standard has not dropped. Read our full review.
The Dolli at Acropolis: The Dolli is a 46-room hôtel-maison set in a beautifully restored 1920s neoclassical mansion, steps from the Acropolis in Plaka. The rooftop infinity pool and restaurant, with their unobstructed Parthenon views, are among the great hotel perches in Europe. Art-filled interiors include pieces by Picasso and Cocteau in the salon; the intimate Le Bar Secret has rare books lining its walls. One of the most distinctive stays in the city.
The Modernist Athens: Set in the former Canadian Embassy in Kolonaki, this is the most design-forward boutique in Athens. 38 rooms labelled S through XL, with Scandi-influenced interiors, Marshall speakers, Egyptian cotton and a rooftop bar conceived by mixologist Nikos Bakoulis of The Clumsies. The XL rooms come with outdoor hot tubs. The daily early-evening Greek wine tasting, six wines and a grazing board, is one of the better hotel rituals in Europe.
Ace Hotel and Swim Club Athens: The Riviera’s coolest recent arrival. Mid-century interiors, a Greek modernist facade, excellent coffee, a destination cocktail bar and a swim club open to guests and day visitors alike. The hotel of choice for the creative set, and a serious alternative to the grander Riviera properties for those after something more relaxed.
The Roc Club: A 34-room boutique Grecotel property right on the shore in Vouliagmeni, with marina and sea views, mid-century furniture and paintings by Greek artist Angelos Goulandris throughout. Rooftop restaurant, pool and steps from both Vouliagmeni Lake and Astir Beach. The right choice for a Riviera stay that is intimate without sacrificing access to everything.
Hotel Grande Bretagne: On Syntagma Square since 1874. The rooftop pool looks directly at the Acropolis, the marble-and-chandelier grandeur makes arriving feel like an occasion and the bar and rooftop restaurant are worth visiting even if you are staying elsewhere. This is where elites and royalty stay in the capital.
The Margi: A chic SLH-affiliated boutique in Vouliagmeni, open since the 1960s, with an organic farm, a candlelit poolside restaurant and a spa. The quieter, more residential choice among the Riviera properties.
Where to eat in Athens
Taverna Ton Filon: One of the city’s most quietly exceptional tavernas, set in a northern suburb where tables spill onto a small square under festoon lighting. A steady local crowd, traditional dishes alongside more considered plates, and a strong Greek wine list. Relaxed, assured and deeply rooted in its neighbourhood.
Papadakis: In Kolonaki, under bitter-orange trees, with glimpses of the Acropolis beyond. Chef Argiro Barbarigou approaches seafood with precision and restraint, elevating familiar dishes without overworking them. It carries the ease of an island taverna, but with a sharper, more polished city sensibility. Book ahead for the terrace.
GB Roof Garden, Hotel Grande Bretagne: Set atop the Hotel Grande Bretagne, this is the city at its most cinematic. A more relaxed counterpoint to the hotel’s formality, with a front-row view of the Acropolis, Lycabettus Hill and Parliament. Come early for a sunset drink at the bar – tables are coveted – then stay for Greek classics, lightly elevated.
Simul: A contemporary Kolonaki bistro under chef Nikos Thomas, built around seasonal Greek produce and a confident sharing-plate format. The cooking is inventive without feeling forced, balancing technique with clarity of flavour. The room is lively, the tone relaxed, and the menu shifts enough to reward repeat visits.
Oikeio: A long-standing Kolonaki favourite, serving traditional Greek cooking with a light, contemporary touch. The menu changes daily, guided by what is fresh, but classics such as moussaka and slow-cooked lamb remain anchors. Outdoor tables and a warm, unpretentious dining room give it an enduring, neighbourhood feel. Book ahead.
Coffee and cafés
Dope Roasting Co., Monastiraki / city centre
One of Athens’s more design-conscious coffee spots, with high ceilings, industrial detailing and a large central bar anchoring the space. The coffee is excellent, the atmosphere relaxed, and the crowd a mix of locals and creatives settling in for longer stays. Come to work, or simply to pause well.
Ere Athens, Kolonaki: Part concept store, part café, with a distinctly Scandinavian sensibility. Bright, minimal and quietly stylish, with a curated edit of books, objects and homeware surrounding a small coffee bar. Settle into the window seat with something sweet and consider it equal parts coffee stop and retail therapy.
Samba Coffee Roasters, Koukaki: A more stripped-back, specialty-led address, focused on sourcing and roasting with precision. The space is simple, the approach serious without being showy, and the coffee consistently strong. A reliable stop when you want something quietly excellent without distraction.
TAF – The Art Foundation, Monastiraki: Hidden within a cluster of restored 19th-century houses, this courtyard café and cultural space offers a slower pace just off the main thoroughfares. Coffee and drinks are accompanied by a rotating programme of exhibitions, making it as much a creative hub as a place to pause.
Ergon House: Part deli, part café, part restaurant and boutique hotel, Ergon House reinterprets the idea of a traditional Greek agora. Built around a central olive tree, it showcases produce from small Greek farmers alongside Taf coffee and a strong pantry selection. The rooftop offers a quieter vantage point above the city.
Cocktail bars
The Clumsies: A cornerstone of Athens’s cocktail scene and a consistent presence on The World’s 50 Best Bars list. Set across multiple rooms in a neoclassical building, it balances technical precision with a relaxed, sociable atmosphere. Book ahead, or arrive early, and order something unfamiliar.
Baba Au Rum: One of the original forces behind Athens’s cocktail revival, and still among its best. Rum-focused, low-lit and tightly run, with drinks that prioritise balance and clarity over theatrics. It sits within walking distance of The Clumsies, making the two an easy pairing in a single evening.
Line: Currently ranked among the world’s leading bars, Line operates with a circular philosophy, producing its own wines, beers and ferments on site. The cocktails are inventive, sometimes unexpected, but grounded in technique. Set in a former gallery space, it feels ambitious without becoming overly serious.
Quinn’s Bar: A small, low-lit Martini bar in Ilisia, centred entirely on the craft of the drink. There is no menu to distract from the essentials, and the experience is deliberately stripped back. Ask for owner Ilias to make your Martini and settle into one of the city’s more understated corners.
A for Athens Rooftop: Overlooking Monastiraki Square, this rooftop bar offers one of the most direct views of the Acropolis. The setting is straightforward, the energy unforced, and the lack of reservations keeps it accessible. Arrive at sunset, when the light shifts and the city begins to settle into evening.
Wine bars
Vintage: Located just off Monastiraki Square, Vintage offers an extensive by-the-glass list spanning Greek and international wines, alongside serious Champagne and classic European bottles. It strikes a balance between approachability and depth, making it an ideal stop after a long day exploring the city.
By the Glass: Near Syntagma, this polished wine bar is known for its strong Greek selection and knowledgeable in-house sommeliers. The setting is refined but relaxed, with a menu that supports longer stays. It fills quickly at weekends, so booking ahead is advisable.
Heteroclito: A pioneer of Athens’s natural wine movement, tucked into a small alley near Syntagma Square. The rotating list focuses on lesser-known Greek varietals, offering something distinct from more conventional lists. Intimate indoors, with a lively pavement scene outside, particularly in warmer months.
Materia Prima: A small, focused wine bar in Koukaki, centred on low-intervention Greek and international wines. The list rotates regularly, guided by seasonality and curiosity, while the staff bring a genuine enthusiasm to the experience. It feels personal, thoughtful and refreshingly unpretentious.
Warehouse: An all-day wine bar in Exarcheia with one of the most extensive selections in the city, including over 140 wines by the glass. The offering spans natural and classic styles, Greek and international producers. A basement cellar adds depth, while the atmosphere remains relaxed and quietly serious.
Tanini: A laid-back Kolonaki wine bar with a strong focus on biodynamic, organic and terroir-driven wines. The staff guide without overexplaining, and the atmosphere encourages lingering. A weekend brunch with live piano adds a softer daytime dimension. The kind of place that becomes a regular stop.
What to see and do on Athens
The Acropolis Museum: Set at the foot of the Acropolis, this museum is designed in direct dialogue with the site itself, with excavations visible beneath glass floors. The top gallery aligns with the Parthenon, creating a sense of continuity. The restaurant, with its view, is worth building into your visit.
Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre: Designed by Renzo Piano, this expansive complex combines opera, library and landscaped parkland that slopes towards the sea. It operates as both cultural institution and public space, with a strong programme of events. The annual Nostos Festival is particularly worth timing your visit around.
Megaron Concert Hall Gardens: Located just beyond the centre, these gardens offer a quieter cultural setting, particularly in summer when open-air performances take place. The programme spans jazz, classical and Greek folk music, with a relaxed, local audience. The adjacent concert hall hosts a broader calendar throughout the year.
Shopping: Greeks have an instinct for beauty that runs through everything – from ceramics and textiles to the way a space is put together – so it is no surprise that Athens is filled with genuinely compelling boutiques and concept stores. The Naxos Apothecary is one of the best: a cool, tiled space that really does feel like an apothecary, with glass jars, oils, Greek mountain teas and remedies sitting alongside covetable Greek brands such as Ancient Greek Sandals and Zeus + Dione.
Nearby, The Anthologist – founded by stylish PR and creative force Andria Mitsakos – is a by-appointment trove of colourful handmade homeware, jewellery and vintage textiles, sourced globally and brought together with a strong, unmistakable point of view. A short walk away, Forget Me Not offers a more accessible edit of Greek designers and well-made pieces, from ceramics to jewellery, that feel considered rather than tourist-led.
Philopappos Hill: Often overlooked, this hill offers one of the most balanced views of the Acropolis from across the city. The walk is short and shaded, with a slower pace than the main archaeological sites. It is particularly rewarding towards sunset, when the light softens and the city begins to shift.
Museum of Cycladic Art: Housed in an elegant Kolonaki building, this museum holds the world’s most significant collection of Cycladic figurines. Minimal and abstract, the works feel strikingly modern despite their age. It is not vast, but it is quietly affecting, and rewards time spent moving slowly through the collection.
Monastiraki Sunday Flea Market: A sprawling, chaotic market that offers everything from vintage jewellery to ceramics and unexpected finds. It is as much about the atmosphere as the objects themselves. Arrive early, take your time, and plan to stop for souvlaki at Kostas somewhere along the way.
Lake Vouliagmeni: A short drive along the Athenian Riviera, this natural thermal lake sits beneath limestone cliffs, with mineral-rich water that remains warm year-round. It has long been part of local life. Visit early for a quieter swim, or later in the day when the atmosphere becomes more relaxed.
Ten Twenty Club: Located on the Riviera, this members-style club brings together racquet sports, wellness and social space within a well-designed setting. It attracts a younger, design-aware crowd and functions as both a daytime retreat and a social hub. A useful window into Athens’s more contemporary lifestyle scene.
Dubai-based Isabella Craddock is the founder of Near+Far, a founding Academy Chair for The World’s 50 Best Hotels, former Condé Nast Traveller editor and a hotel-obsessed, design-devoted travel planner—for friends, loved ones, and readers alike.
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