Near+Far Amanwella review: 8/10

Why book Amanwella

The Indian Ocean island of Sri Lanka is intrinsically linked with tropical modernism. One of its most famed architectures, Geoffrey Manning Bawa, was a driving force in the movement, and today, the design style influences resorts and residential homes across the island. On the south coast, on mashed potato sands of Tangalle, is where the most luxurious example of a tropical modernist retreat lies – one that will delight design lovers and coastal escapists will fall in love with the world over – Amanwella.

Located on an untamed palm-strewn beach, where the sound of crashing waves permeates the air, just 27 near identical earth-hued minimalist villas hide in the hillside between frangipani trees. Wild vegetation is juxtaposed with stripped-back clean lines, glass, stone, and indigenous materials – and everything pointed towards the ocean.

Location: 9/10

Sri Lanka’s south coast is dotted with fishing towns, and the coast of Tangalle sets the scene for Amanwella – a short drive, or tuk-tuk, from the resort. Don’t be put off by the arrival – down a rocky, dusty side road leading to the coast – as what appears before is a 30-acre property in the hillside and a long beach backing onto jungle and palm trees. The beach is 800 metres, the sea deep and blue, but the waves can be rough, so it’s not suitable for swimming – but surf schools are nearby. Most guests come to Amanwella to hide away in their villa and on the beach, but those who want to head out can enjoy the famous ancient Buddhist temple Mulgirigala Rock nearby, the Mawella Lagoon 10 minutes away (where Amanwella offers an excursion of cocktails and canapes on a floating lounger). For those wanting a dose of vibrance and local culture, it’s easy to head out and explore – one evening we venture out one evening to a local beach shack to enjoy fresh fish and chips and beers to the sound of waves, while Smoke & Bitters – the only Sri Lankan-owned bar in Asia’s 50 Best Bars – is 30 minutes by car.

The vibe: 8/10

Grown-up, exclusive, private, peaceful – on the surface, Amanwella is best suited to couples, but we encounter families and a lively group of friends on our stay, who laugh and enjoy beers on the beach. Breakfast is quiet, served to the crashing waves on the terrace, as is dinner – be it at the main restaurant or on the beachfront outlet, this time to the mellow soundtrack of a Sri Lankan trio. The waves dominate the experience, lulling guests into an almost meditative state of relaxation – guaranteed, you’ll have the best sleep of your life.

Rooms and suites: 9/10

27 nearly identical villas are dotted in staggered tiers across the hillside, tumbling down onto the beach. The villas are a design lover’s dream, the definition of impeccable tropical modernism. Separated by frangipani and palm trees, villas are enclosed within beige stone walls, hiding a courtyard, open-plan indoor space itself and a long terrace with ocean views. All rooms have the same layout, varying in size and proximity to the ocean. The back courtyard contains a private jade-green plunge pool that gets a few hours of sun but offers total privacy, while the terrace has loungers and a dining table.

It might seem s ahsame to have the pool hidden at the back, but it works for privacy, with the path below quite close to each terrace. Inside, the open-plan bedroom is clad in dark kitul wood walls, creating a cool environment – especially when the latticed shutters are closed. We enjoy a soaking tub, open-plan bathroom and dressing area – stocked with his and her rattan hats – and a minibar with complimentary non-alcoholic drinks and snacks. We spend the days with the French doors open to hear the crashing waves, and are lulled to sleep by their gentle roar at night. Each villa can enjoy three complimentary items pressed a day.

Food and drink: 8/10

Amanwella has three dining spaces – an all-day restaurant in the main hub, all cut glass, minimalist and lording over the coast, an open-plan lounge bar in the same location, and the Beach Club – a chic, slate grey, open space on the sands where guests can enjoy barefoot dinners of local rock lobster, seafood platters and cocktails. Note the Beach Club is reservations only, so make sure to book when you arrive. Breakfast is a real treat, and after a coffee on the terrace, we look forward each morning to rambling along the jungle path to the contemporary minimalist restaurant – glass-walled and lording above the crashing waves. Order the king coconut water, the perfect post-sleep, pre-day hydration, and Sri Lankan hoppers, plus platters of vivid tropical fruits. As with Aman’s Sri Lankan sister property, Amangalla, a complimentary afternoon is served each day – lovely in the late afternoon sunshine. Mediterranean and Sri Lankan fare is available across the outlets, including yellowfin tuna, Sri Lankan curry, pizza, burgers, and more. There’s also villa service and private dining on the grounds – a real treat.

Spa and facilities: 7/10

There’s no actual spa, which is a slight disappointment given the nature of the resort and Aman’s wellness affinity, which means there’s no sauna, steam or gym. That said, guests can book treatments at two repurposed guest villas spanning signature Ayurvedic treatments and more. Treatment can also be enjoyed on the beach next to the crashing waves. Personal training and yoga sessions are also available to book, for an extra cost, on the resort’s grounds, outside of the villas, which all have their own private pool, a vast lake-like infinity swimming cascades offers framed by loungers and sturdy umbrellas – built to stand tall in the often strong coastal winds. Wildlife safaris, surfing (and surf lessons) and fishing with local fishermen are also all available – bookable with your private Aman butler and giving an authentic glimpse into the beating heart of this stunning destination.

Tangalle, Sri Lanka; pool suites from $950 a night (about AED3,490); aman.com, @amanwella_resort

Read more: A tale of two trips: a luxurious journey through Sri Lanka’s south coast

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