Near+Far Amangalla review: 10/10

Why book Amangalla

Something comes over you when you enter Amangalla – a rare feeling of complete and utter joy. It could be the sweet smell of frangipani in the air, the ice-cold cinnamon tea and cold towel on arrival, the gentle whirr of ceiling fans and the trundle of tuk-tuks as they pass the veranda. The hotel, an ode to period splendour, sits in the walls of the Galle Fort, a UNESCO-protected old town and one of Sri Lanka’s most popular attractions. The 17th-century building has lived many lives, and now houses one of elite brand Aman’s most stunning properties – a Victoriana meets Sri Lankan time machine where guests feel like they step into a fairytale.

For a few days, the hotel becomes your home. Guests can wander in the thick tropical gardens, swim in the emerald-tiled pool, retire to your bedroom (opened with a weighty metal turn-key), with charmingly creaky floorboard, lofty ceilings and antique furniture, and take a seat on a rattan chair on the veranda, peeking through the balustrades onto the street below, or in your bathrobe to the Victorian-style baths of Aman Spa. Even as a luxury hotel regular, this reviewer was utterly blown away at the level of service and intuition -an ice bath for your drink by the pool, aloe vera to a sunburnt husband – a hospitality dream to return to time and time again.

Location: 10/10

The Galle Forte encompasses a rocky walled promontory in the Bay of Galle, a UNESCO-protected heritage site built by the Portuguese in the 16th century and conquered by the Dutch in the 17th century before falling to the British. Amangalla sits in a 17th-century building that served as both Dutch and British military headquarters before becoming the New Oriental Hotel, catering to European passengers travelling between Europe and Galle. Modern-day Amangalla, opened in 2005, sits next to one of the oldest buildings in Galle, the Dutch Reformed church, and is a short walk from key historical sites like the clocktower, lighthouse and Maritime Museum. The hotel sits in the thick of Galle Fort, without being too in the thick of it – meaning the garden is lovely and peaceful. We love taking off on foot, walking past old mansions now housing artisan coffee shops, boutique hotels, jewellery stores, bars and more, and heading to the coastal ramparts – where we enjoy sundowners at cool new cocktail bar Charlie’s. Outside Amangalla’s entrance is a coastal wall and a popular spot for photographs, so there’s always a buzz, along with a constant flurry of tuk-tuks. Listen for the ruby red tuk-tuk bakery loaded with Sri Lankan bread bakery that moves to the tinkle of the Fleur-de-lis.

The vibe: 10/10

Like you arrive in the grand private home of a wealthy relative – warm, inviting, relaxed – yet grand and proper: another world. The lower floor is like a movie set, with its polished teak furniture, antiques, ceiling fans, potted greenery, memorabilia and more, and guests casually float around – taking breakfast and cocktails on the veranda, afternoon tea in the drawing room, dinner under candlelight. There’s a very peaceful air in the day, and more lively at night – when external guests come to enjoy the setting. What’s more, despite the old period style, the crowd is a mix of mature and young couples and friends – everyone is welcome. You also feel completely at home wafting around in your robe between the Victorian Baths and your room, to bring a cocktail up to the top floor to sit in planter’s chairs and take in the view. There are no elevators, just a charming grand staircase, so request a room on the lower floors if necessary.

Rooms and suites: 9/10

Amangalla is one of the most exclusive stays in the country, with just 29 doubles (including some twins) spread across the main historic building and a contemporary garden annexe. Entry-level bedrooms set the tone, and arriving early from an Abu Dhabi red eye, we’re into one as a day room – spacious, incredibly well appointed, with a bed chamber leading to a large open-plan bathroom and dressing area with agony wardrobe and roll-top tub with shuttered window. Our suite sits on the top floor, up four flights of stars and is a complete dream: whitewashed walls, the same 150-year-old wooden floors, a poster bed, crisp white cotton sheets, a top bath, a walk-in shower with vintage white tiles, twin antique basins and arched windows.

Period touches include a rattan chaise lounge, the writing desk filled with postcards, and a delicate (and much-neeed on a sticky summer’s day) Palmyra fan. The only modern amenities are power points, air conditioning, a mini fridge and high-speed wifi (across the property); no coffee maker or television reinforces the ‘at-home’ feeling – which we initially lament over, but actually don’t miss at all. Fruit bowls are replenished daily with juicy Sri Lankan mango and pineapple, and snacks and soft drinks are complimentary – a wonderful touch. It’s important to note the building is historical, so quirks like thin windows are to be expected (all part of the charm). The more modern annex building has balconies looking the garden and pools. There are all the amenities you need, and more can be requested – and the more welcome – three complimentary items pressed a day. A small but incredibly welcomed touch.

Food and drink: 10/10

Breakfast is like a dream – waking up to Sri Lankan sun pouring through the arched windows, pottering down the stairs and taking a seat on the dappled terrace for Sri Lankan egg hoppers, coconut water, fresh juice platters and pots of steaming coffee. There are both Western and Sri Lankan dishes, but we go traditional and order hoppers daily – string or egg – served with homemade sambal and dhal. Lunch at the poolside is a must, as are Sri Lankan curries in the heat by the emerald waters, alongside a ‘fancy’ dinner. Dress up and enjoy a cocktail in the ‘Zaal’ (salon) or on the same veranda, complete with a live Sri Lanka duo (order something with arrack for a truly local taste). Afterwards, move back onto the terrace for fresh seafood from Galle’s waters, more curries, risotto and steak – all served in dim flickering light taking. Other hideaways include a library with backgammon, vintage memorabilia and antique furnishings. Another generous Amangalla perk is the complimentary afternoon cream tea, a pot of delicate local Ceylon tea and scones loaded with jam and cream daily – sublime.

Spa and facilities: 9/10

The Aman Spa is the stuff of legends, and Amangalla’s lives up to the mark, and more. Nestled in the garden, the whitewashed, arched hall welcomes guests with flickering candles and rattan chaises, creating the feeling of old-world Ceylon. There are five suites, and an in-house Ayurvedic physician, and the staff deliver treatments that render you almost incapable of getting off the extremely comfy bed – using fragranced lotions and potions with cinnamon and lotus. A retro-style men’s barber by the library also takes you back in time. All guests get 30 minutes of complimentary access to the hydrotherapy suites, with a warm vitality pool, cold plunge, sauna and steam – charmingly done up like a Victorian bath house. Free yoga is also on offer in the garden pavilion – subject to availability – a zen experience against a backdrop of chirping birds,

Aman’s experiences also encompass Galle itself – and your Aman butler will happily take you on a walking tour of the town, sharing history and stories. Other experiences include Geoffrey Bawa architecture tours, temple visits and mask painting, all organised by Aman with the luxury car (loaded with drinks and snacks) and simply added to your bill – no need for the currency of time-consuming research. There’s no gym or fitness suite, which is a shame, but the new GM is working on plans for personal training sessions and classes for guests.

Anything to add?

We completely fell in love with Amangalla: its soul, history, unrivalled service, and intuition from staff (especially by the poolside) make you feel truly taken care of, as well as the thoughtful giftettes left on the pillow each night. We enjoyed two nights, but we could spend a week becoming temporary residents of the grand home. Book a corner suite for sea views, an entry-level chamber to avoid the stairs or the upper floors for views across the rooftops. Combine a trip with Amangalla to Amanwella, 1.5 hours drive away on a beachy coastline popular with surfers, and a completley different Aman holiday vibe.

Doubles from $750 a night (around AED2,750) including breakfast, daily cream tea, mini bar snacks and soft beverages and three items of pressing a day; aman.com, @amangalla

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