Amankora Bhutan review: 9/10

Why book Amankora

Amankora Bhutan is undoubtedly one of the most unique hotels in the world. This is a hotel experience for a once-in-a-lifetime escape, one that takes months of planning, excitement, and anticipation. The property isn’t just one, but in fact, five, gracefully dotted around Bhutan’s valleys – an enigmatic Himalayan kingdom that lies between India, Nepal and China. For years, Bhutan was shrouded in mystery, but it has embarked on a recent tourism push, with a soon-to-be-launched direct route to Sharjah making it more accessible than ever. For such a rustic and enigmatic country, it may surprise you that Bhutan is home to a shiny galaxy of five-star resorts, Six Senses, andBeyond, and Como, to name a few, but the most superlative is Aman – blending its iconic Jap-Andi vibe with traditional Bhutanese architecture and providing a truly once-in-a-lifetime experience of cultural immersion and luxury.

Amankora’s five lodges (Paro, Thimpu, Punakha, Bumthang and Gangtey) are the pinnacle of secluded luxury and comfort – hidden in pine forests, on rivers and on forested knolls – where inclusive dining, roaring fireplaces and help-yourself-bars make you feel like you’re in someone’s private home. Travelling with a guide in Bhutan is essential (all valleys but Thimpu and Paro require it), and Aman’s partner guides are superlative – whisking you from resort to resort in a luxury van equipped with snacks and wifi and providing priority access to temples and forts. Visiting in a cold Bhutan winter, we checked into the forested lodge in snow-capped Thimpu, Amankora Punakha, a riverside farmhouse in warm, leafy Punakha, and Amankora Paro in the thick of the forest (choose a handful or travel all around for the full experience). Each lodge is unique, but there’s a beautiful sense of continuity – and all offer spacious suites with warming Bhutanese wood, a restaurant, a spa and activities from archery and cooking classes to onsen baths and temple hikes (each varies per lodge).

Why travel to Bhutan

By now, you’re most likely interested in Bhutan, a tiny Kingdom in the Himalayas known for its peaceful, laid-back way of life, temples, hiking and popular royal family. For years, access to the Kingdom was restricted by visa processing and flight routes, but following COVID-19, the country has revved up its programme with the view of attracting select tourists to enrich, not overwhelm, the country. There’s a high tourism tax (currently $100 per person per day) – but this is a once-in-a-lifetime destination. Bhutan encompasses many valleys and 20 districts, each filled with Buddhist temples, charming villages, forts and monasteries with live-in monks and surprising – like a national sport of archery and national dish of chilli cheese (an absolute must). We recommend picking 3-4 lodges for a two-week stay.

Amankora rooms and suites: 10/10

All rooms across Amankora’s portfolio of five resorts are largely similar – perhaps to make guests travelling around feel more settled and at home. Open plan and cosy with soaring picture windows and window seats overlooking nature, rooms (the size of suites) are a cocoon of comfort with Bhutanese log burners for chilly winter nights, soaking bathtubs, blankets in traditional Bhutanese prints and homely wooden floors and accents. Thimpu’s rooms are dark wood and dimly lit – with windows overlooking the misty pine forest, while Paro and Punakha’s are almost identical – lighter and brighter to reflect the surroundings. There’s no coffee or tea maker – all hot drinks are ordered on demand to the room at no additional charge, along with laundry – returned in hours. You’ll find yourself taking baths multiple times a day, just to use the delicious Amankora almond bath oil, or sitting for hours in the comfy window seat watching the peaceful surroundings. Amankora Bhutan blends Aman’s signature Japanese-Scandinana aesthetic with the rituals and design details of the Kingdom of Bhutan, and it’s a magnificent marriage.

Food and drink: 9/10

All of Amankora’s resorts have one central dining space – creating the feeling of a communal home, encouraging conviviality and delivering an effortless hub of warmth and hospitality. In Thimpu, this feels like a Japanese ryokan, with an open living and dining space with four-seater tables and intimate corners to hide away in. In Paro, dining happens at long communal wooden tables overlooking the gardens, firepit and the hillside temple – while you can enjoy drinks and coffee in the panoramic upstairs lounge with floor-to-ceiling glass windows.

Amankora Punakha is the most unique of our stays – and unmissable on any itinerary. While guests stay in modern wooden lodges, the main hotel is a historic farmhouse owned by the royal family. This really feels like you’re staying with a local household. Breakfast is served in the bright and Scandi-style ground floor dining room with two long communal tables, but there’s plenty of seating on the upper (charmingly wonky) floors – for an intimate dinner or drink. Each menu format is the same, an a la carte offering of lunch and dinner classics and a special rotating set menu – over our week, we enjoyed a Bhutanese and Indian set menu alongside mains like smoked trout, steak frites, schnitzel and more. The Bhutanese set menu is unmissable – sharing plates of Bhutanese classics, including the famous momos (stuffed local dumplings) and chilli cheese. All meals at Amankora’s dining rooms are included in the room rate, along with all beverages and house alcoholic beverages.

Breakfast is typically Aman, international and full of healthy options, but there’s a Bhutanese twist for those inclined. For long drives between lodges and the sightseeing days, the hotel teams pack up picnics from a dedicated picnic menu of Bhuteanse and western dishes – baguettes, Bhutanese curries, fresh fruit, cakes, and the beloved chilli cheese.

Spa and facilities: 8/10

Each of Amankora’s five lodges embodies the spirit of its valley, perfectly in sync with facilities and experiences for guests. In Thimpu (a popular starter lodge, along with Paro), traditional dances and workshops await on the terrace and in the library. Downstairs, there’s a tiny steam room and spa with treatment rooms – a sauna goes a miss in the cold Bhutanese winter, but the cosiness of the rooms makes it forgivable. In Punakha, the valley of warmth, nature, and rushing rivers, a lake-like swimming pool overlooks the valley, which is lined with elegant white sun loungers and shaded by trees. A slightly larger spa offers multiple treatment rooms and steam alongside a yoga studio – self-practice or classes. Paro’s spa is the biggest, keeping with the key count, and offers a large studio and special hot-onsen bath experiences. The latter is divine, especially after a hike- to the famous Tiger’s Nest – hot steam and eucalyptus fill a traditional wooden bath right in the forest. Be aware there’s no gym or fitness centre in either lodge, but Bhutan is an active holiday on hikes, and exploration is part of the daily agenda – so you won’t feel too restricted.

Amankora experiences: 10/10

Each of Amankora’s unique and memorable lodges offers an array of locally curated experiences – to be enjoyed solo or with your dedicated guide. Thimpu’s activities include visiting the Buddha Dordenma statue, a massive golden statue lording over the city, visiting the old post office, seeing how local paper is made, hikes and more. In Punkaha, it’s temple hikes, river rafting, archery, and visiting the Punakha Dzong – the second oldest and most magestic fort in Bhutan with live-in monks. Spectacular riverside picnics are also popular thanks to the warmer climate – a white tablecloth experience with barbecue and wine. In Amankora Paro, take the chance to hike Tiger’s Nest – a sacred 13th-century temple sitting high in the mountains and a vital pilgrimage site for Buddhists. Like in Punkaha, the five-hour round-trip hike is sweetened with a lunch stop in Amankora’s dedicated lodge beneath the hiking trail – a stunning table set up with homecooked Bhutanese food and wine and brilliant bird watching.

The verdict

Travelling to Bhutan and staying in Amankora’s lodges means seeing the Kingdom in the most luxurious and finding depth light – to be able to experience and try authentic Bhutanese culture, but to have the comfort of an Aman resort – the service, the food, the facilities, and above all, the impeccable design and vibe. Staying with Amankora Bhutan means an elevated experience, not only in the resort, as dedicated rooms for Aman guests only crop up in tourist spots and restaurants as a delightful treat. Amankora Bhutan is a once-ina-a-lifestime hotel experience.

Rooms from $2,550 a night (based on two people sharing, inclusive of all meals served at Amankora dining rooms and all house beverages), aman.com

Getting to Amankora

Your stay at Amankora

You can stay at one Amankora Bhutan lodge, but it’s best to experience a minimum of three to truly get to grips with Bhutan and explore its varied landscapes. Start with Thimpu or Paro, the largest resort and within an hour’s drive from the airport, and follow the suggested route. Thimpu to Punkakkah will take a three-hour drive, but stop at temples and for a picnic. Finish your trip at Amankora Bumthang – near the domestic Bumthang airport so you can fly back to Paro and avoid the long drive.

Climate

In the foothills of the Himalayas, Bhutan has very cold winters and very hot summers. Be mindful that each of the Amankora Bhutan lodges comes with a very different altitude, and with it, temperatures. Amankora Thimpu sits at 2,334 m while Punakha sits at just 1,200. Plan your lodges according to your seasons. Visiting in January we experienced snow in Thimpu, warm, balmy conditions in Punakha and pleasant sunny days in Paro. In summer, it averages at 25°C.

Flights

Bhutan has one airport, Paro International Airport, which operates just two local airlines – Bhutan Airlines and Drukair Royal Bhutan Airline and serves three other domestic Bhutan airports. Travellers from the UAE and GCC will need to fly to destinations like Bangkok and Kathmandu before making their way to Bhutan – an easy and fuss-free experience with flights to daily flights Kathmandu available in the likes of Flydubai and multiple flights across dozens of airlines to Bangkok. From Kathmandu, it’s a short one-hour flight – making this the easiest way to access Bhutan from the UAE. A new flight route directly connecting Sharjah with Bhutan will launch this year, in collaboration with Air Arabia.

Getting around

All travellers to Bhutan visiting valleys outside of Paro and Thimpu will need a specialist guide, by law, which is bookable when you book your hotel. Amankora Bhutan works with a special and select group of highly skilled and wonderful guides to truly enhance your Bhutan experience – remember to bring cash (US dollars is acceptable) for a tip. Your guides will drive you around in a dedicated vehicle, arranged by the hotel.

Currency

The ‘Ngultrum’ is Bhutan’s official currency, though Amankora lodges and many other tourist attractions are priced in US dollars.

For full information on visiting Bhuran, visit bhutan.travel

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