Villa Agrippina Gran Meliá Near+Far rating: 8/10

Why book Villa Agrippina Gran Meliá

Rome is a city filled with beauty – beauty in its streets, gardens, historic ruins, restaurants, people, and hotels. The city has no shortage of beautiful places to bed down, but one offers something unique in this jumble of fascinating ruins, exquisite architecture and priceless sites – Villa Agrippina Gran Meliá. Sits on the eastern bank of the Tiber metres from the Vatican and Castel Sant’Angelo, Villa Agrippina Gran Meliá feels like an Italian countryside manor house, through it’s smack bang in the city centre, transcending a city hotel with its manicured gardens, olive-tree-line drive, swimming pool and – a real reason to book – its gobsmackingly stunning speciality suites with panoramic views of Rome, hot tubs and private pools. Guests step into the former convent-turned-rosey-hued palazzo and feel instantly at peace, allowing them to enjoy the Italian sunshine and unwind while being walking distance from the buzz. In summer, it’s one of the absolute best places to bed down in central Rome.

Location

Villa Agrippina Gran Meliá is an urban resort emulating the feeling of a grand Italian country manor while being in the heat of the city. Right on the banks of the Tiber, the property offers panoramic views of Rome’s central skyline to one side – the regal Victor Emmanuel II Monument, Villa Medici and myriad church domes, and St Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican on the other. The latter is just a 7-minute walk away, alongside the cool local district Prati with its trendy neighbourhood restaurants. The main sites are all across the river and easily done on foot. Rome’s most famous dining and nightlife area of Trastevere is also a short walk or easy taxi – home to dozens and dozens of vibey trattorias, cobbled lanes, cocktail bars and more.

Vibe

There’s a wonderfully relaxed vibe at the hotel, one that feels elevated and tasteful without being pretentious or glitzy – a vibe for which the Spanish brand Meliá is known. Corridors and public spaces smell delicious, and staff is always smiling. The crowd is a mix of locals and tourists, couples and families, and anyone who wants to combine the excitement of a city break with the relaxation and indulgence of a resort escape.

Rooms and suites

Despite its size, the historic building is home to just 116 rooms and suites, from entry-level deluxe right through to truly fabulous panoramic suites and even a private pool villa. Rooms offer either street or garden views; opt for the garden if you can, and have dark wooden floorboards, tea and coffee machines, king-sized beds, soaking tubs, and Bluetooth speakers, and all come with Botticelli-style paintings above the bed – adding a touch of grandeur, but with a playful Melia twist.

The speciality suites are where the hotel shines, and five categories have their own terraces and views. Checking into our panoramic suite feels almost like a dream. After spending time in Rome, you get used to such beauty, but the double-take feeling returns when stepping onto the terrace – vast with a bubbling hot tub, two loungers, a seating area and views across the river and the city. The suite is well-appointed, and much care has been taken to maintain the original building, such as partitions instead of walls. Carner Barcelona toiletries are delicious, smelling, and delightful, leaving out dry, Dubai hair soft and shiny. One morning, it rains, and we simply sit in the hot tub, a glass of fizz in hand, and gaze at the stupendous beauty unfolding before us. For something absolutely superlative, book into the Agrippina Private Pool Villa – a two-bedroom suite with its own garden and private swimming pool, almost unheard of in the Eternal City.

Food and drink

Three restaurants and bars are on-site, each perfect for a specific occasion and dotted around the grand property. Breakfast is served at Gala Pool, a white and light poolside restaurant with a terrace and a distinctive Melia feel. The breakfast has Italian and Spanish favourites, fruit, cereals, pan con tomato, cold cuts, and a hot counter with everything for a fully cooked breakfast. There’s an a la carte menu, though this is chargeable, even for suite guests, so stick to the buffet to avoid any surprises on the bill. The casual yet elevated space is also open for lunch and dinner, and we enjoy aperitivo, homemade pasta and other Italian delights surrounded by lemon and olive trees as we watch the pinky sunset.

The hotel’s star dining concept is Follie, a fine dining Italian eatery championing the ingredients of the Roman Empire in a sumptuous setting – think lots of red velvet, greenery and gold. For a coffee, cosy hideaway, nightcap, or to feel like you’re the châtelain of the manor, grab a corner in Amaro, a decommissioned church, not a beautiful art deco-style cocktail bar and lounge with peacock blue accents and parquet floors.

Spa and facilities

Of course, the star attraction here is the outdoor swimming pool – fringed by sun loungers and cabanas and encased by the old convent walls. That, and the manicured gardens, which are lovely for a little sun-dappled stroll or to park up with a book. There’s a 24-hour gym with Technogym equipment, though after a day’s roaming in Rome and a swim in the lengthy pool, we don’t pay a visit, and a Clarins Spa & My Blend Spa. Make sure to visit the spa even for 30 minutes or so, as the gleaming white and modern space is home to a sauna, steam, aromatherapy room and an outdoor vitality pool with a jacuzzi.

Need to know?

If you have the means, opt for the highest room category possible – the entry level can be a little dark and musty (though spacious and with everything you need). Ask for a room with a garden view, as the interchange can be noisy. Those travelling with pets will be happy to know Villa Agrippina Gran Meliá welcomes dogs, a brand-standard with Meliá.

Doubles from AED1,850 per night, high season; doubles from AED1,150 per night, low season; melia.com; @villaagrippinagm

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