A love letter to Jordan’s world-famous Valley of the Moon, told by photographer Julia Caira
NEAR+FAR’S My Middle East series brings you personal stories and photographs from leading travel figures and photographers in the region, revealing beloved destinations, favourite spots, insider travel advice and more – told from the heart
WADI RUM, JORDAN
Words and photography by Julia Caira, @juliacaira
I visited Jordan in Spring 2023 and was spellbound by Wadi Rum. The sheer scale and openness of the landscape, with its blazing red sand and curious rock formations is often likened to the surface of Mars. It compares to nothing I’ve seen before and even as a photographer, I think that only the human eye can fully appreciate it. It’s no wonder so many popular movies were filmed here, like Lawrence of Arabia and The Martian.
Going from the liveliness of Amman, Jordan’s capital city, to this far-flung land felt like stepping into another world. With its vast open spaces, towering sandstone cliffs, and trains of camels ambling in the distance, the landscape is exactly what comes to mind when you think of the desert. It’s becoming increasingly hard to find travel experiences that allow you to connect with a place authentically, but Wadi Rum was an exception. I booked a one-day one-night Jeep tour and camping experience in the desert with Wadi Rum Stillness. Sahar, a life-long resident, took me on an excursion around the 721 square-kilometre protected area, letting me catch a glimpse of how his people live.
The hospitality of the Bedouin people that inhabit this 721 square-kilometre protected area is incredibly warm and genuine, and, as a Brit, I appreciated the familiar ritual of tea and a good chat. I came away from Wadi Rum with a real sense of place, feeling enriched and connected, just as good travel should do.
I have such fond memories are clinging to the rails of a Land Cruiser as it hurtled through the sand. Taking a post-lunch nap in the shade of amber cliffs as eagles circled overhead. Sipping hot spiced tea before an open fire to the twangs of an Oud. Bedding down beneath the starry sky. These were moments that left imprints on me like no other travel experiences have.
If you are looking for an authentic cultural experience, seeking adventure, or have never visited the Middle East before, Jordan is the best place to start, and visiting Wadi Rum is a must. And if you’re in need of a digital cleanse, look no further, there is absolutely no phone signal here, so turn that out-of-office on. Also, due to its remote location and therefore lack of light pollution, Wadi Rum is one of the best places in the world to see the stars!
This article originally featured in NEAR+FAR Volume II, juliacaira.co.uk
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